Turkish Tuesdays: Taksim and the Prince's Islands

Welcome once again to the Center's "Turkish Tuesday," where we bring you news, culture, and a virtual experience of Turkey.  Today's post comes from Kamal Gray who studied Advanced Turkish at CES and majored in political science.  Kamal was an exchange student at the Bosphorus University in Istanbul last year and it was there that he fell in love with the city.  He has since returned to the city and has promised to keep us updated on his Turkish travels and adventures.  In the upcoming days we will have, as promised, entries from Odessa, the Holocaust Museum in DC, and also news of our recently hired Visiting Lecturer in Polish Studies, Jack Hutchens and a report from Conor O'Dwyer on the state of gay political movements in Poland.  Until then, we leave you with Kamal's enchanting visions of the Princes's Islands in Turkey.  

Nearly twelve months have passed since I was last in Istanbul. On first leaving Ataturk Airport, the familiar sights and sounds mingled with the ever-changing nature of the city. The silhouettes of Süleymaniye Mosque and Hagia Sophia were to my right, while the new bridge for the expanding metro line passed on my left, linking the newer and historic parts of the city. Glancing back at me in the rear view mirror, the taxi driver quietly chuckled as I tried out my Turkish skills.  And after forming a few complete sentences, among a mess of broken bits, he seems satisfied that I can actually speak Turkish.  Then he throws a series of questions at me about Turkish and American culture.  He passes back a bottle of water while we go up and down the hills of my new neighborhood. I gawk at the inclines and then I realize that I am going to have climbs these hills everyday. They could give San Francisco a good run for its money!

Once I settle in to my new apartment, I decide to trek out into the city and the first place that comes to mind is Taksim, the heart of modern Istanbul. Taksim, with its always-crowded streets, is home to an array of shops, bars, and clubs. The sheer volume of people boggles the mind. Istiklal Avenue, the main pedestrian thoroughfare in Taksim turns into an endless sea of heads on any given Friday or Saturday night, as people from all parts of the city come to enjoy the nightlife.  But one need not only enter the bars for entertainment – the street itself is alive with music and dancing.   Numerous groups of musicians line the street to play a mix of Turkish and Western influenced music entertaining passers-by. Crowds gather around the groups as spectators furtively shift left and right trying to steal a glance of the music’s source. People often dance traditional dances like the halay to the beats of the drum. This is the Istanbul that I remembered - so full of life, color, and vibrancy.  

Collectively I’ve spent over a year in Istanbul and although I’ve gotten around, there are still so many places I’ve yet to see. Catching up with old friends has been one way I manage to drag myself all over this massive city, most recently to the Prince’s Islands. The Prince’s Islands are a collection of nine islands off the coast of the Anatolian side of Istanbul. In the past, the islands were used to hold Ottoman royalty in exile, in addition to being home to a series of Greek monasteries. Today, tourists flock to the islands in droves during the summer months for a brief vacation. The islands offer a needed escape from the hustle of mainland Istanbul. The four largest islands, Büyükada, Heybeliada, Burgazada, and Kınalıada, are the most frequented.  I’d already made my way to Heybeliada and Burgazada, but this time I would finally get to visit Büyükada.

 

I boarded a ferry on European side of the city and I watched as the sun set over the Marmara Sea to the south of the city. The lights of the islands lit up the night sky as I arrived on Büyükada. After finding my friend outside the ferry station, we made our way past the rows of seafood restaurants and the main square on the island. Horse-drawn carriages raced past us as we hiked our way to the hills of the island. Cars are forbidden on all of the islands as a way to protect the natural beauty and so many people travel around the island by carriage.   Although it was nearly dark by the time I arrived, the beauty and nature of the island were apparent even in the twilight.  But it was not until morning that I realized exactly how special it was. By daylight, I could see just how beautiful the islands really are as I looked out the living room window onto the bright blue sea.  Somehow I’d forgotten just how amazing Istanbul is, and in moments such as these, gazing out at a sea glimmering with sunlight and the beauty of Büyükada all around me,  it all comes rushing back.